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专访 包益民:一个创意人士如何面对时尚商业?

来源: 门道Fashion    编辑: 界引起无数喧嚣。

  LVMH集团总裁Bernard Arnault当时力排众议,将站在奢侈行业“门口”外的Virgil Abloh推向最核心的品牌地带,从此奢侈品正式开启与街头潮流融合时代。Virgil Abloh也被很多业内人士称作外来“搅局者”。

  似曾相识的画面今天在中国时尚媒体上演。

  YOUZHE“HUARENCHUANGYIJIAOFUZHICHENG”DEBAOYIMIN,KUAJIEZHIZHANGKANGTAINASHIJITUANQUANXINCHANYEMEITIPINPAIVogue Business in China。

  近日,康泰纳仕中国在上海举办发布会,宣布全新时尚产业媒体Vogue Business in China中英文双语版正式上线,包益民担任编辑总监,带领Vogue Business in China聚焦中国市场,为中国600万时尚从业者及全球读者提供时尚、奢侈品、美妆等领域内容报道与行业洞察。

康泰纳仕集团从成立Vogue Business到推出中国版,用时短短不到一年,已为全球超过39个地区的时尚从业者提供行业资讯。

专访|包益民:一个创意人士如何面对时尚商业?

168彩票代理  KANGTAINASHIZHONGGUOZONGCAISophia LiaoNVSHIYUVogue Business in ChinaBIANJIZONGJIANBAOYIMINXIANSHENG

  SUIZHEYENEIYONGHUDUISHENDUNEIRONGXUQIUZENGDUO,SHISHANGSHANGYEMEITIBUDUANYONGXIAN,DANDUOSHUYISHUCHUXINGYEXINWENZIXUN、SHANGYEFENXINEIRONGWEIZHU。

  QUANQIUJIAOQUANWEIto bSHISHANGMEITIWWD、Business of FashionZAOYIJINJUNZHONGGUOBINGKAISHIBENTUHUAYUNYING,Fashionetwork、Fashionlaw、Fashionista、Fashion UnitedDENGSHUZIMEITIGUIMOYEZAIBUDUANZHUANGDA。CIWAI,GUONEISHICHANGHAIZAIBUDUANYONGXIANSHISHANGSHANGYEZIMEITI,KAIQIXINGYEYONGHUZHENGDUOZHAN。

  HOULAIZHEYAORUHEZAISHISHANGSHANGYEMEITISAIDAOKUAISUCHAOCHE?Vogue Business in ChinaJIANGCAIYONGCHAYIHUACELVE,YIGUOJIHUASHIJIAOFENXIZHONGGUOSHISHANGSHICHANGDEXIAOFEIZHEXINGWEI、YEJIEDONGTAI、XINGYEQUSHIDENGFANGMIAN,BAOYIMINZAICAIFANGZHONGQIANGDIAO:Vogue Business in ChinaMUBIAOZUOSHISHANGCHANYE“ZHIKU”。

168彩票代理  YITUOKANGTAINASHIJITUANZAISHIJIEGEDICHAOGUO800WEIDESHISHANGJIZHE、BIANJIZUCHENGDEWUYULUNBIDERENMAIWANGLUO,Vogue Business in ChinaNEIRONGJIANGJUJIAO:

  1.SHISHANGCHANYEDEZHENGTIQUSHI,BAOKUOSHEJI、SHENGCHANZHIZAO、YINGXIAOFENXIAO、RENCAIZHAOPINDENG。

  2.HONGGUANJINGJI、QUANQIUHUAQUSHIDENGWAIBUYINGXIANGYINSUDUICHANYEDEYINGXIANG。

  3.ZHONGGUOWENHUAXINGTAIHELINGSHOUSHICHANGDEXIANGHUYINGXIANG。

168彩票代理  4.KEJIJINBUDUICHANPINSHENGCHAN、YINGXIAOHEXIAOSHOUFANGSHIDEYINGXIANG。

168彩票代理  GENJUBOSHIDUNZIXUNFABIAODESHUJUXIANSHI,2018NIANZHONGGUOSHECHIPINSHICHANGZHANQUANQIU33%,ZHEIYISHUZIJIANGZAI2025NIANPANSHENGZHI41%。CHULEPANGDADEXIAOFEISHICHANGZONGLIANG,ZHONGGUOYESHIQUANQIUZUIWEIPANGDADEFANGZHIPINSHENGCHANGUO(2018,Statista)。SHUJUBEIHOUFANYINGCHU“GUANJIANSHIJIANDIANYIDAOLAI。”BAOYIMINZAIJIESHOUCAIFANGSHIQIANGDIAO,MUQIANZHENGSHIYIGEGUONEISHISHANGQIYEZOUXIANGQUANQIUHUADEGUANJIANJIEDIAN,ZAIZHEIGESHIJIANDIANSHANG,Vogue Business in ChinaYAOZHUTUIZHONGGUOPINPAIZOUXIANGGUOJIHUA。

  ZAIZHEIYANGDEHUANJINGHEBEIJINGXIA,BAOYIMINZHEIWEIZHIKU“CAOPANSHOU”DEJIAOSEZHIGUANZHONGYAO。BIQICHUANTONGSHISHANGMEITIREN,DANGXIAVogue Business in ChinaSHOULINGBAOYIMINGENGGUANGWEIRENZHIDESHENFENZAICHUANGYISHEJILINGYU:YAZHOUZHUMINGCHUANGYISHEJISHI,HUARENCHUANGYIJIAOFU。TAYONGYOUZHEHUIHUANGDELVLI,ZAILUODEDAOSHEJIXUEYUANXUEXIPINGMIANSHEJI,ZAIYISHUZHONGXINSHEJIXUEYUANDUGUANGGAO,YILUKAOCHUANGYISHEJIDAPIN,CHUANGLIBAOSHIJITUAN。ZIJIBANZAZHI、ZUOCHANPIN、CHUSHU,SHEJIZUOPINCENGHUODEQUANQIUJIN150DUOXIANGSHEJIJIANG。

  DANDUOSHURENBINGBUZHIDAODESHI,BAOYIMINSHENSHANGTONGSHICUNZAIMEITIREN、SHANGRENLIANGGEBIAOQIAN,YECENGJIANZHENGBINGCANYULEZAZHIDEHUANGJINSHIDAI。

168彩票代理  BAOYIMINYISHOUJIANLIDEBAOSHIJITUANCENGJINGZAITAIWANCHENGGONGCHUANGBANLEMEISHUANGZHOUXIAOSHOULIANGDA 100,000BENDESHEJISHENGHUOZAZHI《PPAPER》,ZHEIYESHISHIJIESHANGWEIDUYIBENRANGJIANZHUSHIZAHA HADIDYICIXINGFABIAOCHAOGUO200GEDAIBIAOZUODEZAZHI。

  CIWAI,TACENGYIMUHOUSHENFENZHUDAOCEHUASHISHANGXINGYEDUOGEANLI,BAOKUOKarl LagerfeldCANYUDUCIDEKUAJIEJIANZHUSHEJI“ZHONGTAILAOFOYE”ZHUZHAIXIANGMU、Marc JacobsCHUXISHANGHAISHISHANGSHENGDIANDENG。

168彩票代理  CONGCHUANGYICHANYEDAOJINTIANZHIZHANGVogue Business in China,YONGBAOYIMINDEHUALAISHUO:YIQIE,GANGGANGHAO。

专访|包益民:一个创意人士如何面对时尚商业?

168彩票代理  BAOYIMINYUKarl Lagerfeld

  YIWEILEJIEBAOYIMINDESHEJIQUANRENSHIBIAOSHI,BAOYIMINCHENGWEIVogue Business in ChinaSHOULINGBINGBUQIGUAI,TAHENZAOJIUYISHIDAOYAODAPOSHEJITIANHUABAN,KUASHANGYE、CHUANGYILINGYUFAZHAN。BAOYIMINZAOQIANJIESHOUCAIFANGSHISHUO,“SHEJILINGYUGUOYUXIAZHAI”。JINGGUODUONIANJILEI,SHISHANGCHENGWEIJIAOHESHIDEZAITIVogue Business in ChinaCHENGWEITASHIZHANCAIHUA、KUAJIEZHENGHEDEXINJIHUI。

168彩票代理  YANXIA,SHISHANGXINGYEBIANJIEZHENGBIANDEYUEFAMOHU,Louis VuittonYUYINGXIONGLIANMENGYOUXIKUAJIEHEZUO,BurberryTUICHUSHOUYOU,GucciYUTENGXUNQIANDINGZHANLVEHEZUO,SHISHANGXINGYEZHENGZAIXIANGGENGWEIFUZADESHANGYETIJINHUA。ERXIANGBAOYIMINZHEIYANGDONGDEKUAJIE、CHONGPOBILEIDERENXIANRANGENGFUHEDASHIDAIYUJING。

168彩票代理  NEIME,YIGECHUANGYISHEJIZHUANJIAZHENDEDONGSHISHANGSHANGYEMA?KUAJIEZHEKANZHONGGUOSHISHANGCHANYEFAZHANHUIYOUNAXIEBUTONGSHIJIAO?DUIYUKANGTAINASHIJITUANLAISHUO,Vogue Business in ChinaSHIFOUSHANSHANLAICHI?BAOYIMINYAORUHEDAILINGTADAZAODUJUTESEDENEIRONGPINPAI?

  DAIZHEZHEIXIEWENTI,MENDAOFashionYUBAOYIMINJINXINGLESHENDUDUITAN(YIXIACAIYONGRENWUZISHU)

  为什么要加入Vogue Business in China?

  天时地利人和,刚刚好

  SHUODAOZENMEYUVogue Business in ChinaJIEYUAN,BAOYIMINHENTANRANDESHUODAO:

  WOHESophia(Sophia Liao,KANGTAINASHIZHONGGUOZONGCAI)SHISHIDUONIANDEPENGYOU,YEYIZHIGUANZHUTASUOZUODESHIQING,TAZAIYEJIESHIZHONGBAOCHIHENJINGCAIDECHENGJI。YOUYITIAN,SophiaTURANDIANHUAWO,WENWOHUIBUHUIKAOLVVogue Business in ChinaDEJIHUI,SHUOSHIHUATOUYICITINGDAOSHIHAIMANJINGYADE。

  ZUOWEIQUANQIUTOUHAOMEITIPINPAI,WORENWEIYOUHENDUOCHUANGXINKEYIZUO。HOULAIWOMENZUOLEDUOCIGOUTONGTAOLUN,YIQIZHAODAOLEVogue Business in ChinaWEILAIMOSHI,WOMENDOUJUEDEHENXINGFEN,SUOYIYIDINGYAOZUOCHULAI,XIANSHISHIKAN。

  WOHENJINGPEISophiaDEYONGQI,TAZUIZHONGXUANZEYIGEFEICHUANTONGMEITIBEIJINGDERENLAIZUOZHUBIAN,QISHISHIDUIZHEIGEXINPINGTAIBAOYOUGENGDUOQIWANG,QIWANGDAILAIGENGDUOKENENGXING。WOJUEDE,GOUCHENGZHUBIANYIGEZHONGYAODETIAOJIANSHI,TABIXUSHIDUOMIANSHOU,YUELEJIESHISHANG、LEJIESHEJI、LEJIECHANYE、LEJIESHANGYE,YUENENGZUOCHUGENGDUOKUAJIE,BAZHEIDAOCAIZHUDEGENGFENGFU。

168彩票代理  HENDUORENSHITONGGUOSHEJICHUANGYILINGYULEJIEWODE,QISHIWOHAIYOULINGWAILIANGGESHENFEN,YIGESHISHISHANGAIHAOZHE,LINGYIGESHIJINGYINGGUANLIZHE。WOYIZHIZAIZUOSHANGYEANLI,XIHUANYUEDUSUOYOUYUSHISHANG、SHANGYEXIANGGUANZILIAO。DANGXIABANYANVogue Business in ChinaZHUBIANJIAOSEXINGYUNDESHI:YIQIEGUOWANGJINGYAN,GANGHAOQUANBUYONGSHANG。

  ZHIYUDUISHISHANGSHANGYEBAKONGYULEJIE,WODUISHISHANGSHANGYEDELIJIE,JIAOXIANJIYUXIAOFEIZHESHIJIAO。

  WOXIHUANZUOYIGECHANPINTIYANZHE,MEIYIJIXINPINSHANGSHIWODOUHUIQU“XUNDIAN”,QUYANJIUMEIYIJIANYIFU、SHICHUANMEIYIJIANYIFU,MEIYIGEXIAOXIJIEDEBIANHUAWODOUHUIQUSIKAO,WEISHENMEJINNIANDEYIBIAOBIANXIAO?WEISHENMEGENGROURUAN?WEISHENMEJINNIANYAOZHEIYANGSHEJI?WEISHENMEZHEIGECHANPINDINGJIASHIJIWAN,TAHEJINGZHENGDUISHOUCHAYIZAINA,WOZONGSHIXIGUANZHANZAIXIAOFEIZHESHIJIAO,BAOCHIDUIZHEIGECHANYEDEGUANCHA、SIKAO。

  做观察者是首一步,第二步是我喜欢扮演操盘手。

168彩票代理  WOHUIWENZIJI:RUGUOWOSHIZHUDAOZHE,ZHEIJIANSHIYAOZENMEZUOJUECE?WEIJIGONGGUANZENMECHULI,SHECHIPINPAIYAOHUANXINDECHUANGYIZONGJIAN,RUGUOSHIWOHUIQUXUANSHEI,ZHEIGERENDEYOUSHIZAINALI?XINDESHEJISHICHANCHUDEXILIE,HUIDAILAINAXIEZHOUBIANYINGXIANGDOUYAOKAOLVJINQU。SUIRANWOMEIZAICHANYENEIQINZICANYU,DANBUDUANJILEIHEDUIBISHICHANGZOUXIANG,JIUXIANGCAIGUPIAO,SHICICAIBACIZHONG,MANMANZHIDAO,QISHIWOSHIKEYICAOPANDE,JIUCHAYIGEJUEDING。ZHEIZHONGJIEJUEWENTIDESIWEIXUNLIAN,YEFUHEZHIKUJIAOSE。

  从0到1,像产品研发,建立Vogue Business in China

168彩票代理  DUIYUYIGECONG0DAO1DECHANPIN,FUHUAGUOCHENGGENGXIANGXINSHENGERWENSHI。ZENYANGYONGCHANPINSIWEIZUOXINNEIRONG,DAMOMEIYIGEXIJIE,BAOYIMINSHUO:YAOYONGHAIDAOJINGSHENDACHAYIHUACELVE。

  Vogue BusinessHEVogueSHIYIGEYINGBIDELIANGMIAN,Vogue BusinessZHUYAOJIANGZHENGGESHISHANGCHANYEQUSHIBAOGAODENG,WOMENZAIGONGSINEIJIXIANGHUDULI,YOUBICIHUBU。

168彩票代理  Vogue Business in ChinaHAOXIANGYIGEXINSHENGER,WOMENJINGLIDEGUOCHENGJIUXIANGYANFACHANPINYIYANG。WOMENDAZAODESHOUYIGECHANPINTIYANSHI,YOUYAYUEDUTIYAN。WEICI,QUESHIHUALEDALIANGSHIJIANQUYANJIU、QUEBAORUHEZAIZAISHOUJIDUANYUEDUSHIYOUYAERANJINGDE。HENDUOPENGYOUGAOSUWO,DAJIADOUZAIZAOGAOFENGLUSHANGYONGJIFENZHONGSHIJIANSHUAPINGYUEDU。ANCHANGLISHUO,WOMENYAOSHENGCHANXIYINYANQIUDENEIRONG,DANZHEIZHONGYUEDUBINGBUSHIHEVogue Business。SHENDUDEYUEDUXUYAODUZHEJINRUANJINGZHUANGTAI,SUOYIWOMENDEPAIBANJIHUSHOUPINGYIDONGHUAHETUPIANWEIZHU,SHUABUDAOSHIZHINEIRONG,HENSHAOYOURENGANZHEIMEZUO。

  QISHI,WOCONGQIAOBUSI、AILONG·MASIKEZHEIZHONGQIYEJIASHENSHANGHUODEHENDUOYONGCHANPINSIWEIQIFA。CONGXIAOXUESHEJI,SHOUQIAOBUSIDEYINGXIANGHENDA,DADAOSHENMECHENGDUNI,QIAOBUSIQUSHIDANGTIAN,WODEZHIXIAOXISHIZHIJIEKUCHULAILE,RANHOUQULIFADIANTILEYIGEGUANGTOU。QIAOBUSIDUIWOZUIZHUYAODEYINGXIANGZAIYU,TARANGWOXUEHUIKANDAOWENTIDEBENZHI,YONGHAIDAOJINGSHENGAIBIANSHIJIE。

  那么Vogue Business in China产品卡位在哪里?

  CONGCHANPINSHEJILAIKAN,RUGUONEIRONGTIYANHENXIANG,Vogue Business in ChinaHOULAIZHEDESHENFENFEICHANGCHIKUI。CONGFENGMIANDAOBIAOTISHEJI,WOMENXIWANGYONGHUYIKANDAOBIAOTI,KEYIANJINGXIALAI,LIUBAIKANBUDAOTAIDUOXINXI。ZAINEIRONGPAIBANSHANG,WOMENYEYIZHIDAMOCHANPIN,YAOJIDUODANIANLINGQUNTIKAN,YONGHUYOUMEIYOUJINSHI,SHIZAIYIDONGZHUANGTAIXIAYUEDUHAISHIBANGONGSHIYUEDU,ZHEIXIECHANPINXIJIEWOMENHUALEDALIANGSHIJIANFANFUCHANGSHI。

168彩票代理  XIANZAIVogue Business in ChinaPAIBAN,WOJUEDEMANSHUFU。BACHANPINYUEDUTIYANSHEJIHAO,ZUIZHUYAOTIAOZHANDESHIRUHECHIXUDAZAOJINGCAINEIRONG,WOMENXIWANGVogue Business in ChinaNEIRONGBUZHIYOUSHIXIAOXING,HAIYINGGAIYOUZHANGJIUYUEDUJIAZHI,ZHEISHICHANPINSHOUJIEDUANZHUYAOZEREN。MUQIANVogue Business in ChinaBAODAOWEIRAOJIEJUEFANGANSHUCHU,GENGQIANGDIAOhow to,YONGHUKEYIGANZHIDAOCHAYIHUA。

  如何领跑 时尚商业媒体赛道?

168彩票代理  RIJIANYONGJIDESHISHANGSHANGYEMEITISAIDAO,QIANYOUYIXILIEBENTUSHISHANGSHANGYEZIMEITI,HOUYOUQUANQIUSHISHANGSHANGYEMEITIWWD、Business of Fashion,Vogue Business in ChinaYAOKAOSHENMECAINENGYING?RUHEPAOMAQUANDI、RUHESHANGYEHUA,BAOYIMINJICHULEZIJIDEKANFA:

  QUANQIUSHISHANGXIAOFEISHICHANG30%ZAIZHONGGUO,HENKUAIHUICHAOGUO40%。QIANSUOWEILAIDESHICHANGGUIMOXUYAOBEIGUANZHU,YEZHIDEBEIGUANZHU。DANGRAN,ZHONGGUOERSANXIANXIACHENXIAOFEIQIANLIYESHIVogue Business in ChinaGUANZHUDE。

168彩票代理  DANGSHICHANGTILIANGZUGOUPANGDASHI,to bDESHISHANGSHANGYEMEITIJIAZHITUXIAN。YOURENSHUO,XIANGBIQITAJIJIA,Vogue Business in ChinaZUIHOUYIGEDAOZHONGGUO。DANHAOCHUSHI,YIJINGYOUQIANBEISHICUOLE,WOMENKEYILEJIEXUEXITAMENGUOQUZUODESHIQING,DANHENDUOBINGBUSHIHEVogue Business in China。

168彩票代理  Vogue Business in ChinaZAIZHONGGUOBENTUBANYANYIGESHENMEYANGDEJIAOSE,WOWENGUOZIJIYIQIANBIAN。ZUIZHONGZHAODAODAAN:Vogue Business in ChinaZAIZHONGGUOBANYANZHIKUJIAOSE,JIANGQUANSHIJIEJINGYING、ZHONGGUOJINGYINGLIANJIEZAIYIQI,TONGGUOPINGTAIZUOBUTONGDEHUDONGMOSHI。

  SHEJIAOMEITIYUSUIPIANYUEDUZHENGZAIZHONGGOUMEITIDEQUANWEIXING,WOMENBIXUCHEDIZHUANBIANZIJIBANYANDEJIAOSE。ZIXUNNEIRONGGUOSHENGSHIDAI,WOMENXUYAOTIAOCHUNEIRONGGUAIQUAN,ZUODUOYUANHUALIANJIE,BUZHIXIANYUNEIRONGYUEDU。

  ZHONGGUOYOU600WANSHISHANGCONGYEZHE,Vogue Business in ChinaYUZHICHANGHULIANWANGSHEJIAOJUTOULinkedInZHANLVEHEZUO,BANGZHUQIYEJISHISHANGQIUZHIZHEHUXIANGZHAODAO“DUIDEREN”JIEJUEXINGYETONGDIAN。TONGSHIPINGTAIHUIJUHEQUANQIUZUITopDEREN,QUZUOworkshop、YANJIANG、YANXISHEDENGYIQIEXINGSHIDEHUDONGJIAOLIU,FENXIANGCHENGGONGANLI。

  CONGSHANGYEMOSHILAIKAN,WOMENZUOMEITIYONGYUANDOUXUYAOGUANGGAOTOUFANG,Vogue Business in ChinaYEHUIRUCI;QICI,WOMENTONGSHIYIKAOZENGZHIFUWU,PINGTAIHUILIANJIENANYIJIECHUDAODESHISHANGGAOJIZIYUAN,YICICHANSHENGFUFEIFUWUXIANGMU;DISANSHIWOMENHUITUIXINGHUIYUANZHI,WEIHUIYUANZHUANMENDINGZHIFUWU。Vogue Business in ChinaHAISHIXINREN,SHICHANGHEXINGYEDOUHUIJIJIHUI。DANGUOLEJIHUICHUANGKOUQIJIUHUIYOUFENGXIAN,WOSHIZHONGZAIBAOCHIZHEJINGTIHEBIANHUA。MUQIAN,Vogue Business in ChinaZHUYAONEIRONGZAITISHISHEJIAOMEITISHANG,ZHIKANNEIRONGYIZAIGUIHUAZHONG。

  ZHANZAIYIGEGENGZHANGYUANDESHIJIANGUIDAO,BIRUSHINIAN,ZAIKANVogue Business in ChinaDEGONGXIAN,YIDINGHENLINGRENXINGFEN。

  ZI2005NIAN,KANGTAINASHIJITUANJINJUNZHONGGUOSHICHANGDAOJINTIAN,KANGTAINASHIZHONGGUOYIYUNYING8GEMEITIPINPAI,BAOKUOVogueQIXIAYANSHENGMEITIPINPAIVogue Me、Vogue FilmDENG。ZAIYENEIRENSHIKANLAI,BAOYIMINZHIZHANGDEVogue Business in ChinaJIANGZHENGSHIKAIQIZHONGGUOSHISHANGSHANGYEMEITISHIDAI,TIANBUSHISHANGCHANYEKONGBAIDIDAI。ERJUKANGTAINASHIGUANFANGTOULUJIANGFUNENGVogue Business in ChinaQUANXINMEITIPINPAIWANCHENGBENTUHUAGUODU,YUQUANQIU31GESHICHANGBIANJITUANDUIDATONGNEIRONGWANGLUO,YICIBUDUANTIGAONEIRONGPINPAIHUCHENGHE。

168彩票代理  DUIYUZHONGGUOSHISHANGSHANGYEMEITIDEWEILAI,WOMENYEJIANGYITONGJIANZHENGXINDEWANFA。

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